Paras

Paras

Paras - Garuda Wisnu Kencana Bali 01
Paras - Garuda Wisnu Kencana Bali 02

Garuda Wisnu Kencana

Towering over the Bukit Peninsula, the Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK) is a colossal depiction of the Hindu deity Vishnu astride his mythical mount, Garuda. It is not merely a feat of engineering but a project forged in the throes of economic turmoil and profound cultural introspection.

The genesis of GWK dates back to 1989 when renowned Balinese sculptor Nyoman Nuarta first conceived of a monumental statue that would serve as a cultural icon for Indonesia. His vision was audacious: a 120-metre-tall statue, which would make it one of the tallest in the world, positioned to overlook the island. The concept quickly garnered the attention and support of the then-Minister of Tourism, Post, and Telecommunications, Joop Ave, who saw its potential to put Indonesia on the global cultural tourism map, aligning handsomely with the ‘Visit Indonesia Year 1991‘ campaign. The initial design proposed a massive cultural park surrounding the statue, complete with exhibition halls, amphitheaters, water parks, a luxury hotel, botanical gardens, private residences, and shopping arcades intended to celebrate Indonesia’s rich cultural heritage.

The Economic Hurdle

However, the path to realising this grand vision was anything but smooth. The first significant hurdle emerged almost immediately: the budget amid the economic pressure of the 1990s. The estimated cost for such a colossal undertaking was staggering, running into hundreds of billions of rupiah. In the early to mid-1990s, Indonesia was experiencing rapid economic growth, but large-scale infrastructure projects were still subject to intense scrutiny. Critics argued that such an enormous sum could be better allocated to essential public services or poverty alleviation programs. The project, initially spearheaded by private funding from the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Foundation, faced an uphill battle in securing consistent financial backing.

The Asian financial crisis of 1997-1998 delivered a devastating blow. The Indonesian economy plunged into turmoil, leading to widespread bankruptcies, social unrest, and a drastic devaluation of the rupiah. This economic meltdown brought the GWK project to a grinding halt. Funding dried up, construction workers were laid off, and the partially completed segments of the statue lay abandoned—a stark reminder of shattered dreams. Nyoman Nuarta, despite the setbacks, remained steadfast.

Cultural Clashes

Beyond financial woes, the project ignited fervent debate over its design and placement, particularly concerning the controversy surrounding the height that violates the maximum height regulation in Bali. This regulation dictates that no building should exceed the height of a coconut tree, or roughly 15 meters. The proposed 120-meter GWK statue clearly flouted this tradition—a similar occurrence happened more recently when Nuanu Creative City erected its 30-metre-tall Tri Hita Karana Tower.

This sparked outrage among Balinese religious leaders and cultural figures. “Such a towering structure would offend the gods and disrupt the spiritual harmony of Bali,” declared I Wayan Sudharta, a prominent Balinese scholar, in an interview with Kompas in the early 2000s. Critics feared that the pursuit of commercial tourism and architectural grandeur would eclipse the island’s sacred traditions. Proponents, including Nuarta and the foundation, argued that the statue was not a building but a work of art, a symbol of devotion rather than a profane structure. They also emphasised its location on the barren limestone hills of Ungasan, arguing that it would not overshadow any sacred temples. The debate raged for years, requiring extensive consultations with religious councils (Majelis Desa Adat) and community leaders to reach a compromise.

Further complicating the narrative was the controversy surrounding the location, knowing that Vishnu is one important deity representing ‘north’ but the statue is built in south Bali, as addressed and elaborated in the sacred Balinese cosmology Dewata Nawasanga. The Dewata Nawasanga is a fundamental concept in Balinese Hinduism, an ideological compass that assigns specific deities to the eight cardinal directions and the centre, each with their own colour, mantra, and other attributes. Lord Vishnu is commonly associated with the north, symbolising water, sustenance, and the preservation of the cosmos. The decision to place a colossal Vishnu statue in the southern part of Bali, specifically in Ungasan, was seen by many as a blatant disregard for sacred spatial ordering.

“Placing Vishnu in the south is like turning our cosmology on its head. It shows a lack of understanding of our deepest spiritual principles,” lamented a Balinese high priest to The Jakarta Post in the mid-2000s. For many, this was not merely a matter of geographical placement but a profound cultural affront, threatening to disrupt the spiritual equilibrium of the island. The project’s developers, however, offered a counter-narrative. They argued that the statue’s location on the Bukit Peninsula, a high point, symbolised Vishnu’s omnipresence and his benevolent gaze watching over all of Bali. They also emphasised that the cultural park would serve as a centre for educating visitors about Balinese cosmology and philosophy, thereby enhancing understanding rather than diminishing it. The sheer scale and artistic merit, they contended, would transcend rigid directional interpretations.

Completion

After years of stagnation, a turning point arrived in 2013 when PT Alam Sutera Realty Tbk, a prominent property developer based in Jakarta, took over the project. With significant financial backing and renewed determination, construction resumed in earnest. The complex engineering challenges involved in assembling such a massive statue—made of copper and brass, weighing thousands of tons, and designed to withstand earthquakes—were immense. Modules of the statue were meticulously crafted in Nuarta’s workshop in Bandung, West Java, and then transported by road and sea to Bali for assembly. “This is not just a statue; it’s a testament to Indonesian engineering and artistic prowess,” said a representative of Alam Sutera during a press conference in 2016, highlighting the national pride invested in the project.

After 28 years of a stop-start journey marked by economic crises, cultural debates, and engineering marvels, the Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue, as part of the Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park, was officially inaugurated on 22 September 2018, by President Joko Widodo. Standing at 121 metres tall (including its pedestal), featuring a 64-metre-wide wing span, and weighing 4,000 tons, it is now the third tallest statue in the world. 

Nyoman Nuarta

I Nyoman Nuarta is a renowned Indonesian sculptor and co-founder of the New Art Movement, a collective that has significantly influenced the country’s artistic scene. Born in Tabanan, Bali, he draws inspiration from the island’s culture and mythologies. Nuarta is particularly famous for his massive works crafted from copper and brass, which have become iconic landmarks across Indonesia.

His portfolio includes the Rajapala statue inside the Bali Beach Hotel and the Timika statue located in a special district built by PT Freeport in Kuala Kencana, Papua. Among his most notable projects is the Jalesveva Jayamahe statue in Surabaya, a powerful symbol of Indonesia’s naval might. Depicting a naval officer standing on a building that also serves as a museum, the statue’s name translates to “At Sea We Are Victorious,” the motto of the Indonesian Navy borrowed from Sanskrit. Another notable work is the Jokowi Ngebut statue at the Mandalika Circuit in Lombok, which was created in just three weeks to commemorate a test ride by President Joko Widodo. The statue’s title means “Jokowi Speeding.”

Nuarta’s most recent and significant project is the design of the Istana Garuda, the future presidential palace in Indonesia’s new capital, IKN. As the winning entry in a national design competition, the palace is shaped like a stylised Garuda, the national emblem, with outstretched wings hugging the Istana Negara IKN, a European-inspired colonnaded structure with 34 outdoor pillars in total. Located in the heart of Kalimantan, the Palace’s interior is heavily influenced by Javanese aesthetics and is furnished with carvings by Javanese and Balinese artists.